Cozy Morning

Well, I know I'm not the only one working on last minute Christmas projects.

So I thought it couldn't hurt to let you know that I have another pattern available, that is on half off for the next week.

It's called "Cozy Morning Mitts" and it can be found on Ravelry here.  Enjoy!

Winter Butterfly Cowl

I've been on a major stash busting spree, in an attempt to find the surface of my crafting room.  The chunky yarns would seem easy to get rid of!  Simply knit them up and move them to the outdoor clothing drawer!

This pattern is super simple.  It's nothing difficult or mind blowing.  It's something quick and easy and uses only one skein of chunky yarn.  It has these little butterflies all over this simple fabric.  If you can manage a knit and a purl stitch, you can handle this quick pattern.  This would make a great last minute Christmas gift, at least I think.

I made it for myself, with the desire to have something a bit deeper than my Clara Cowl because sometimes I need to pull a cowl way up to my nose, and just bury my face in it as we walk in the cold wind.  Winter and wool go so nicely together!  No wonder winter is my favorite season.

To make this quickie project, you'll need:

Size US 11 circular needles on about a 24 inch cord.
One skein (or 110 yards) of super soft chunky yarn.  I used Plymouth Baby Alpaca Grande because it's one of my absolute favorites.

Gauge: 11 sts and 18 rows = 4" or 10 cm.

Final size: 26" around, 7" deep.  (Modification note: if you want it wider or slimmer, simply increase or decrease cast on by 6 stitches.)

The one part of the instructions that can be confusing is when you knit into the next stitch in the row below.  For this instruction, you'll have a purl stitch to work next, but you're going to ignore it completely, and knit into the knit stitch just below it, and slip it off the needle.

Cast on 72 sts, and join in the round, being careful not to twist.  Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Rows 1-3: (K3, p3) repeat to end.
Rows 4-5: knit.
Row 6: (K3, p3) repeat to end.
Row 7: (K3, p1, knit into next stitch in the row below, p1) repeat to end.
Rows 8-9: knit
Row 10: (P3, k3) repeat to end.
Row 11: (P1, knit into next stitch in the row below, p1, k3) repeat to end.

Repeat rows 4-11, 3 more times.

Work final ribbing as follows: (P3, k3)  for 3 rows.  Bind off loosely in rib.  Weave in ends and block to size.

That's all!  Feel free to knit a dozen of these and give them out for Christmas, sell them on Etsy and make some Christmas money, or do whatever you like.  If you sell them, please point back to this pattern in your listing.  That's all I ask.

Want some of this soft yarn for you or to whip up a gift?  Well I happen to be cleaning out my stash.  I'm doing a giveaway for it right here.

Serina Cardigan

I know I've been calling this cardigan both "Ginger" and "Serina."  Serina was the original name, but the color yarn I was using was called "Ginger" and I thought that was cute too.  However, when I was publishing it, I did one last check to see how many other "Ginger Cardigans" there were.  There were about 5 other cardigan patterns by that name, and none by the name of "Serina."  So I switched back last minute.  Hope that wasn't too confusing.  ;)

This project finally got done!  This is my first cardigan pattern and has so many "firsts" for me!  Earlier this week I got it back from the tech editor who gave me a few more things to polish it up (as always), and this week I was working on finishing all of the pattern details.  Last night I published it on Ravelry, and it's available to anyone who wants it here, too.  Just click here:


$6.00



A quick rundown of details:
This cardigan is worked using sock weight yarn from the top down, all in one piece with no seaming.  It has a very, very simple lace detailing in the back panel that is quite simple and repetitive to work.  The ribbed front edges and neck are picked up and knit after the body is complete.

I used Madelinetosh Tosh Sock yarn in the colorway 'ginger' and it was a delight to work with!  I will be using Madelinetosh yarns again, that's for sure!  I may have to pick another project using this yarn soon, because this one is getting worn so much it'd probably be prudent to have a rotation going.

Tsu Wrap/Cowl/Capelet...thingy

 This is a super easy pattern I'm putting out there.  I named it "Tsu" (like 'Sue') because it's uses a Japanese lace motif, and because one of my Japanese friends from high school "Tsubasa" had about the cutest clothes I've ever seen.  It made me want to go to Japan just to get clothes that were cute and fit.

It's easily adjustable for any size, and can be worn a multiple of ways.  Now let's get down to business.

You'll need:
Worsted weight yarn.  I used Misti Alpaca in the hand painted color: leather.  For the size I made (let's call it petite) I used 327 yards (exactly 150 grams).  If you intend on adding some repeats to the lace section as I'll lay out for you in a minute, you'll want to have a bit more yarn on hand.

Size US 7 (4.5mm) circular needle (at least a 24 inch cord or longer).  (check your gauge.  I'm a loose knitter, and use size 7s where most patterns require an 8).

Gauge (unblocked): 18 stictches = 4inches

Crochet hook: Size I (5.5mm)  Don't freak out you knitters.  It's just some basic single crochet.  You won't be don't anything fancy.  I suppose if you wanted to modify to do an I-cord edging instead of a crochet edging, but I really think this is easier and faster.

Buttons:  If you want your wrap/cowl/capelet thingy to be exactly like mine because you think I'm that cool, then I'll tell you I used 6 wooden buttons that were 1 inch in diameter.  However, you could easily use bigger or smaller buttons.  Also, if you intend to make it longer, you'll need more buttons.  You could even just do 2 buttons at the top...but I digress.

Needle and thread to sew on the buttons.

How to vary the size:
The size given is for petite people like me.  After blocking (with a bit of stretching) it's roughly 36 inches wide. If you want to add another wavy repeat (2.75 inches) just cast on an extra 11 stitches, and work the pattern as written.  If you want it to be even wider, you can add another 11, or 22, or 33 (you get the point) stitches.  I would also recommend that if you do cast on extra stitches, you might consider making it longer too.  You'll just want to add another repeat or so of the lace pattern before you get to the ribbed edge.

(Option) How to make it seamless:
If you'd like just a circular cowl, and want to omit the buttons and make it just one big tube, you'll want to take 1 stitch away from your cast on number, and join in the round from the beginning.  The first 2 rows you'll do in garter stitch in the round (knit one row, purl the next) instead of garter stitch flat (knit every row).  Then you'll want to decrease 2 stitches (not one right after the other...say one on each side of your tube) as you move into the 3x3 rib.  During the lace section, you'll skip the first stitch in each row, and every odd row will look like this: *K10, p1; repeat from *

Abbreviations to remember:

(WS) -wrong side
(RS) - right side
K-knit
P-purl
YO- yarn over
SSK-slip 2 stitches, than knit them together through the back
K2tog- knit 2 stitches together.

Begin:

Cast on  144 stitches.  (See note above on sizing)
Knit 3 rows.
Begin lace pattern:
Row 1 (WS) and all other odd rows: K1, *p10, k1; repeat from *
Rows 2 and 4: P1, *k10, p1; repeat from *
Rows 6, 10, and 14: P1, *k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, (ssk) 3 times, p1; repeat from *
Rows 8 and 12: P1, *k1 (k1, yo) 3 times, (ssk) 3 times, p1; repeat from *
Rows 16 and 18: repeat rows 2 and 4
Rows 20, 24, and 28: P1, *(k2tog) 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k1, p1; repeat from *
Rows 22 and 26: P1, *(k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k1, p1; repeat from *

Repeat rows 1-28 3 times.  (add more repeats for longer length)

Next row (WS): *K3, p3; repeat from *
Work in 3x3 rib for 14 rows.  Cast off in rib.

Crochet edge:
The purpose of this side edge is to add some button holes.  If you line up the opening, you'll see I put my crochet edge on the left side, but there's no reason behind that other than that was the side my yarn was still attached to, and I didn't want to cut and weave in any more ends than I had to.

Using the loop left in casting off, take the crochet hook and single crochet in the next 2 stitches.  Then do 3 plain chains, and skip 3 loops on the work that you'd normally crochet into. 

Single crochet in the next 15 loops.  *Chain 3, skipping 3 loops, single crochet 8.  Repeat from *

The main idea behind this crocheting is to put a little button hole on the low and high points of the wave.  My numbers aren't magic here, nor are they the law.  You may be able to just wing this, and skip counting all together.  Be sure if you're using a different size button to make sure that the "chain 3" sections are big enough, or small enough for the buttons you want to use.  You can do as small as "chain 1" for small buttons, or "chain 10" for ginormous buttons.  Then send me a picture of that button, because I'd like to see it.  ;)

Now sew on buttons on the opposite side of the button holes.  I did not put a button on the very bottom, because I thought it was unnecessary. 

And now for all the fun little disclaimers and answers to questions that may be asked.  You may totally sell any items made from this pattern, as long as you made it, and not a sweat shop of little children.  Of course, if you actually have a sweat shop of little children, you probably have no problem stealing patterns either and I'm probably wasting my breath.

Also, if you're a yarn shop and wish to distribute this pattern you have my permission to do so.  A couple of requests, though:
1) Give a source to where you got it on the physical copy.  Even handwriting in my blog address will work.
2) Don't sell it.  Give it away.  I'm giving it away for free, so it would sort of be ripping people off, and I'm not fond of that.
3) Let me know that you're distributing it, or using it for a class.  I'm not going to get mad if you don't but you will TOTALLY make my day if you do.  I've gotten several emails asking permission from yarn shops to use my Clara cowl, and I walked on clouds each time I received such a request.  So spread the joy.

Little Pearl Vest

This is the pattern I've been excited about the last few weeks.  Really, really excited.  I've made several vests from this pattern now, and I'm already planning more.  It's that addicting. 

 

This is a very quick pattern worked from the top down in dk weight yarn.  It's meant to be a blank slate so that you can add fair isle if you like, embroidery if you like, or leave it plain to show off your favorite hand dyed yarn.  This might just be my new favorite baby shower gift.  I gave away the little daisy one there.  It's a newborn size and it made me squeal with it's tininess.   Knut and I couldn't believe that newborns are actually that small so I brought out Solveig's old newborn clothes and sure enough...they're that small.

Silje wanted to model it for you all.  We did her hair especially for the occasion.

The pattern comes with sizes newborn to 7 year old.  The newborn took a few hours, the 7 year old with fair isle took me about a week.

This pattern can now be purchased for 5.00

Buttercup Soaker

 

The pattern is finally done!  This is a little wool soaker style wrap for cloth diapering families.  The linen stitch in the body makes it perfect for overnights, and the ribbing on the back and legs make it a really nice fit.  I'm making a couple of these for my nephews, and I'm hoping the last one will be done very soon!  These might appear in my store at some point too...when I get there!

For now, I'm making it available as a PDF download for those who want to make it for themselves, or to sell in your own stores.  My only request is that if you sell this soaker, you are the one who put the love and care into making it, and you give credit to the design where it is due.  A link to this page would be appreciated.

$5.00

And just because it is fun, here's Solveig modeling it for you.

 

And here is her playing peek-a-boo.

Sigh.  She's getting so big.

Clara Cowl

This pattern is more of a guide to make a reversible, seamless braided cowl.  It can be adapted in several different ways and with different yarn.  If you put the effort forth to hand-knitting an item from this guide and hope to sell it, by all means sell it.  Please link this pattern to your listing if you do choose to sell from it.  If you are feeling especially nice, charge more for yours on Etsy than I will ;)

You will need:

Approximately 110 yds of chunky yarn, preferably a wool or wool mix.  Wool is a great insulator in cold weather and resists moisture so it will keep you dry as well.  Not only that but it's a treat to knit.  I used Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca Grande in red.  The yardage worked out perfectly with 2 or 3 yards to spare.

A foot or 2 of yarn of any size, color, or weight to be used in the CO.  This will not be in the end result.

Size US 13 needles.  Pull out the big ones that you hide under your bed in case someone breaks into your house. 

Large crochet hook to use as a stitch holder when doing cables

1 yarn/darning needle

4 chunky double pointed knitting needles.  Size US 13 would be ideal, but I use US size 10 and have survived.  You can substitute any chunky size, or in a pinch use markers or thick pens.  You will not be knitting with these.  They will merely be to hold stitches while you graft.  Don't be scared if you've never done this, I'll walk you through it.

Kmart coupons may apply for some knitting supplies, so always look online before you shop.


***Modifications***
This pattern is easily modified for different yarns or lengths.  If you would like to double the length of this cowl so that it can wrap around your neck twice in a fluffy vogue type way, simply double the yardage required and work the cable twice as many times.  If it were me I'd do twice as many times +1.  The cable pattern divides the stitches into thirds and requires even numbers.

For instance, this standard pattern will CO 36 stitches which will divide into 3 sections of 12 to make the braid.  You can easily make it thinner and CO 30 and divide each section into 10s, etc. I recommend not making the sections any larger than 12 stitches because it get's awfully difficult to cable numbers that high.  Your hands will begin to ache.

***Terms***
K = Knit

P= Purl

C24F in rib= place the first 12 stitches onto the crochet hook and hold in front of the work.  Work the next 12 stitches in 1x1 rib, then work the stitches off of the crochet hook in 1x1 rib.

C24B in rib= place the first 12 stitches onto the crochet hook and hold in back of the work.  Work the next 12 stitches in 1x1 rib, then work the stitches off of the crochet hook in 1x1 rib.

1x1 rib = (K1, P1) repeat across.

Shall we begin?

Using the provisional method of casting on, CO 36 stitches.  (This YouTube video was a great help to me learning this method.  It's essential you cast on these "live" stitches.)

**(K1, P1) for 4 rows

Next row: C24F in rib and (K1, P1) until end of the row.

(K1, P1) for 8 rows

Next row: C24B in rib and (K1, P1) until end of row.

(K1, P1) for 4 rows.  Repeat from ** 4 times (or desired amount)

That was easy, wasn't it?  The next part is a bit tricky, but don't be scared.  It's just yarn.  Tell yourself you're good enough, smart enough, and gosh darn it, people like you.  Think of how proud of yourself you'll be and how smart you'll feel wearing a seamless cowl.  Take a deep breath, here we go into the grafting part.  (I recommend if you have never done grafting, or even grafting 1x1 ribbing to work up a small swatch in cheap scrap yarn and practice before using your nice project.  There's only one thing trickier than doing the Kitchener stitch in rib, and that's redoing the Kitchener stitch in rib.)

I'll show you how to do this stitch using an orange swatch with smaller stitches so it's easier to see.

With the end you just finished with, and using 2 thick double pointed needles, divide the knit stitches onto one needle, and the purl stitches onto the other needle, like this:

Then go back to the beginning and move the stitches off of the scrap yarn used in the provisional cast on, and onto a your size US 13 needle.  Then divide the knit stitches to one double pointed needle and the purl stitches to the other double pointed needle. *Be careful to untwist, or "sort out" these stitches so that they lay correctly as if you were to knit or purl them correctly.*

Now, you'll want to loop your work around in a circle and find where 2 sides meet up by where you'll start.  Since the Kitchener stitch is worked from right to left, I recommend starting where the yarn is at the right side.  Give yourself about a generous yard of yarn to spare and cut your yarn and put on the darning needle, giving yourself a huge tail so the length you'll be working with won't be so long and tangly.

The Kitchener is worked with a front needle and back needle, but for this project I think it's easier to refer to them as the top needle and bottom needle..  Locate the 2 needles you'll be beginning to graft from.

 

The tricky part will be that all 4 needles will be close together, and you just want to work the front 2, and when you've worked across and those 2 needles are no longer used, you'll flip the work and work off the back 2 needles.  You'll be tempted to get frustrated with those back 2 needles getting in the way, but take your time and focus on those front 2.

Now, there's a lingo, or chant that goes with the Kitchener: "Knit purl, purl knit."  This is confusing to some because there is not knitting or purling going on with these stitches.  It is referring to inserting the needle into a loop knitwise or purlwise.  Let me show you the difference between the two.

This is knitwise:

This is purlwise:

To set up the stitch, thread the darning needle through the bottom needle purlwise, and then through the top needle knitwise.  You're ready to start the "chant" now.

Step 1: Working with the bottom needle, thread the needle through knitwise and slip that stitch off the needle.  Then thread the needle through the next stitch purlwise and keep that stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Then moving to the top needle, thread the needle through purlwise and slip that stitch off the needle.  Then thread the needle through the next stitch knitwise and keep that stitch on the needle.

Repeat those 2 steps over and over until you've reached the end of one side.  I highly recommend before starting the next side to go back and fix the tension among any of the stitches you just did.  I like to thread my yarn through very loosely and go back and tighten each stitch.  I find that's easier than doing it too tight and trying to go back and loosen them.  Once that side looks perfect, flip your work, set up your stitches again on those 2 back needles and work across the other side.

Weave in your ends and you're done.  Now go eat some chocolate.  You've earned it.

Annie Dress

When I think of a little baby Annie, I think of Anne Shirley, from Anne of Green Gables.  Anne as little baby “Annie” would have loved the excess of flair in the skirt, and little Annie would have had braids as soon as possible.  Just be sure that if there is a little shirt worn under this dress in the winter, it has puffed sleeves so that little Annie would approve. ;)

I tried to think of a designing a dress that would grow with the baby, so that special hand knit items just might get a few more weeks, if not months of wear.  The bodice on the dress is stretchy, and as it is knit from the top down, the length of the dress can be added to with more cables, garter stitch, or whatever else you like. 

This dress is knit in the round and a great starter project for those wanting to try out cables.  Using dk weight yarn, and a size US 5 circular needle, it's the perfect weight for all seasons.

Sizing is for an 18" doll (American Girl Doll), as well as preemie-24 months.

Permission is given to sell hand-knitted items from this pattern provided each knitter buys her own pattern, and that credit for the design is stated in the listing as follows: "This dress is designed by Nerdy Gerdy Designs and hand knit by 'your name here'.  This pattern may be found at http://www.hesowsandshesews.com/search/label/Patterns." 


 Mass production and distribution of pattern is prohibited.  It is protected under copyright laws; all rights reserved.

Immediate download of PDF format of the pattern available here.

$5.00